18 January 2010

Picture of the day: a 20-meter waterfall in Parque Nacional Lanín, near the Chilean border. We had to hike a whole 12 minutes to get here--and we were some of the only ones on the trail.

17 January 2010

Picture of the day: our dinner in San Martín de los Andes. This is exactly what it looks like, a huge freaking plate of smoked meats (deer on the right, trout in the middle, and wild boar on the left) and various smoked cheeses. San Martin is famous for its smoke shops, or ahumedoras.

16 January 2010

Picture of the day: a ruined bridge on the Ruta de los Siete Lagos (7 Lakes Road).

Luckily for us, this presented no problem. When we showed up at the car rental agency to pick up our tiny economy car (price: $50 per day), we had to wait for 45 minutes while an Israeli couple argued with the guy at the counter over a small matter of there being no cars left. (Gulp.) When we were finally helped, he looked at us apologetically and said, "There are no cars left.... only a truck. Do you know how to drive automatic, or do you need me to show you?" After we confirmed that we'd still only be paying the price for the economy car--and not the price for the 4x4 (price: around $250 per day)--we happily accepted.

15 January 2010

Picture of the day: sunset, as captured from the restaurant (more of a bar, really) where we met some nice Frenchmen who invited us to dinner. On the menu? A lamb roast and several bottles of wine. We started dinner around 11pm, and didn´t get back to our hotel until around 1:30am.

14 January 2010

Picture of the day: the clear water of Nahuel Huapi, the large lake on which Bariloche is located.

The water is so clear because it originates as snowmelt on the nearby Andes. We know this first-hand, because it was hot enough that day to find a private little cove for a picnic and go swimming. Or at least wading... it was hard to go much further than the knees, because even when it was 95 degrees out the water was so frigid it took your breath away.

13 January 2010

Picture of the day: Volcán Osorno, viewed from our dinner table in Puerto Varas.

12 January 2010

Picture of the day: morning kayaking on the Puntra River in Chepu, Chiloé.

We intended to do a nice little 2-hour kayak trip at dawn. We actually did a 5-hour marathon starting at 8am--hey, it may not be Patagonia, but the sun still rises really early here! People sometimes joke about trekkers who end up looking like little human T-Rex's (massive muscle-bound legs, itty-bitty puny arms). After this kayaking trip, I think that won't be so much a problem for us. By the fourth hour, my arms were ready to fall off. Massive biceps, here I come!

11 January 2010

Picture of the day: palafitos (traditional houses on stilts) in Castro, Chiloé.

10 January 2010

Picture of the day: fishing boats in the tiny town of Quemchi on Chiloé.

This is where we stopped for lunch--a big bowl of curanto, or a traditional stew of mussels, clams, pork, and potatoes. (I suggest only the brave click that link to find out how the stew is made. After Torres, I fear no food poisoning!)

9 January 2010

Picture of the day: a totally unreal sunset in Punta Arenas (timestamp: 11pm). No photoshop involved, I swear!

4 January 2010

Picture(s) of the day: Glaciar Perito Moreno, one of the major glaciars feeding Lago Argentino.

While most glaciars in the world are receding, this glaciar is one of the few that is actually growing. It also is one of the fastest-moving in the world, advancing about 6 feet per day. We spent a few hours on walkways above the glaciar, watching huge pieces (i.e., the size of small buildings) of ice calve into the water.

3 January 2010

Picture of the day: a tree growing sideways after being permanently bent by the wind, on an estancia outside El Calafate.

Yes, it's seriously windy here.

2 January 2010

Picture of the day: Lago Argentino.

After hiking in El Chaltén, we returned to El Calafate, 220 kilometers southeast. Despite being a short bus ride away, the climate is completely different. While both places are quite windy, El Chaltén receives all the precipitation that falls on the Andes. El Calafate, on the other hand, is definitely in the desert-like Patagonian Steppes. It sits on Lago Argentino, the largest lake in the country. The lake is the same shade of turquoise as the water in the Florida Keys. (Not as warm, though--the color is due to the glacial melt!)

1 January 2010

Picture of the day: looking down into a glacial crevice.

31 December 2009

Picture of the day: walking through the lenga forest.

29 December 2009

Picture of the day: Cerro Fitz Roy and Poincenot rising above the Lago de los Tres.

Long walk up a very big mountain, but totally worth it.

30 December 2009

Picture of the day: Lago Sucio--the bluest lake I've ever seen--with Fitz Roy in back.

The climb up to this lake was more of a rock scramble, but we were rewarded with a peaceful lake with no one else around. (We later found out that the trail to this lake has been closed for a year or two. No wonder we were all alone!)

28 December 2009

Picture of the day: the bridge over Río Electrico at the start of our trek.

27 December 2009

Picture of the day: the view of Monte Fitz Roy from El Chaltén.

After leaving Ushuaia, we had only the briefest stopover in El Calafate before coming to El Chaltén, about 180 km north. The clouds cleared briefly while we were walking to the internet cafe, letting us grab a shot of the elusive Monte Fitz Roy.

Blogmistress note: we´ll be hiking for the next four days, so don´t expect any posts for bit. Chau!

26 December 2009

Picture of the day: the beginning of the trail to Glaciar Martial, reached after walking up a ski slope (the aerosilla was closed for Christmas!).

After stuffing ourselves silly with Christmas dinner, we took a nice gentle (hah!) walk up a ski slope to a glaciar... then up on the glaciar. Yeah, we broke the rules--we're rebels like that.